I built my two storey extension for 20% of builder's quotes

This site shows how - step by step from design to completion

Remove Load Bearing Wall

With the pillar built and the well capped off it was time to think about the messy job of removing a load bearing wal and replacing with beam. I decided to get some help with this aspect of the job as I knew that doing it alone would be slow, and I didn't want my house supported on props for longer than necessary. I agreed with a local builder that I would remove the downstairs chimney breast, wiring and plumbing so that he could come in for a day and do the final removal of supporting brick and insert the specified UC (aka RSJ). Doing all the work myself apart from removing the last few bricks kept removing a load bearing wall cost down to a minimum.

I made some moulds and cast my own padstones to the size specified by the structural engineer.

wall 2

wall 1

I took down the chimney breast to keep costs down. A friendly builder then knocked out bricks the last of the bricks and insertied props with strong boys. 

I had specified that I wanted the UC to be hidden within the floor void so that no lump would be noticeable in the finished ceiling, so it was a case of remove a load bearing wall and insert hidden beam. I also requested that no buttress be visible where the UC loads the front and rear walls. This made fitting the UC a bit more complicated but it would mean that, when finished, there would be no evidence that a UC was in place and that pretty much all of the load bearing wall can be removed.

Because the UC sat in between two existing floor joists, the only way to get it in place was to make a hole in the rear wall of the house and feed it through. A 38Kg UC was seriously heavy and it took five of us to manhandle it into position.

wall 3