Guttering Flashing installation
The small single storey section was dealt with in much the same way as the two storey section. However, it made life much easier not having to cart everything up the scaffold.
The old single storey I had knocked down all that time ago had a chimney, so I decided to add a chimney to the end of the new single storey. I also think it works aesthetically, at the end of the building.
However, I did not plan to use the chimney for anything. As it would be purely decorative, I terminated it within the roof space by corbelling out the brickwork.
When I worked out my brick bond at the beginning of the build, I ensured that I would be able to create the chimney without having to change the bond. I made the chimney quite wide just like the old one, as a kind of homage to the old building.
I choose to use the single pantiles as they would match my single storey workshop that is at the other end of the house. It also adds some variety, as is very common with old houses.
I needed 50mm roof battens for the pantiles rather than the 38mm I had used for the plain tiles on the main roof. And fortunately I needed far fewer.
Thankfully tiling this roof was much easier as the roof is easier to reach, the tiles are larger, and it's only a small area.
I installed eaves vents as described in the main roof article.
Because of the curved shape of the tile this leaves an opening large enough for sparrows. I know from experience of my workshop roof that the sparrows love to sneak up under the tiles and nest on the felt. To prevent that from happening, I installed eaves combs. They come in strips with lots of comb teeth. I merely cut off the necessary teeth to allow them to fill the gaps.
Where the single storey butts against the main extension I laid some flashing. I received lots of contradictory advice about the use of lead or lead substitute. Some swear that lead is the only way, others have embraced the new. In the end I decided to lay all the flashing in code 4 lead. Not the cheapest system, but the alternative isn't particularly cheap either, and I fancied dressing some lead.
I used the small angle grinder to cut channels into the mortar joints.
I cut a piece of 300mm wide lead to length and folded it in half over a wooden former.
I scribed a line 85mm down from the edge and then laid the lead in position on the tiles. I then scribed a horizontal mark in line with each mortar joint.
I got a scrap piece of oak from my workshop and made a simple tool to bend the lead. I scribed a line from the edge of the horizontal marks I made in the previous step to intersect with the 85mm line. I then scribed the angle between. Because I needed an inch of lead to protrude into the brickwork I made a second parallel scribe mark an inch further out. The oak tool was made an inch wide, so it was easy to place it and scribe the mark.
It's kind of hard to explain, but it is easier than it sounds once you get your head round it.
I then used the tool to bend the lead over at 90 degrees. This is the portion that will push into the slot in the mortar line. If I did everything right then they should all line up nicely with the slots.
The finished flashing in two sections because recommendations are to not have a single run longer than 3 meters. Once in place I immediately wiped the lead with patination oil.
There is still some dust on the brickwork from when I used the angle grinder, but this soon washed off.
I also dressed some lead around the chimney.
I had installed plastic guttering at the sides of the two storey extension where it was hardly noticed. For key areas, however, such as the single storey and the front where the two roofs joined I decided to fit traditional cast iron gutter. I had several lengths of old, rusty downpipe, gutter and a hopper that I had stored in the garden for the best part of eighteen years. It was really pleasing that after all that time it would be put to good use. I had it shot blasted and sprayed then fitted it to the house.
I bought a tube of black gutter sealant for my silicone gun. I have this theory that all the different products you can buy to fit a skeleton gun are all really the same but with different colour additives. However, this stuff was really thick and sticky. i am sure it will do a good job of sealing the joints. I also guess I need to be less cynical about skeleton gun products.
The installed guttering, hopper and downpipe. The cast iron definitely suits the house much better than plastic guttering. I think it looks classy.