External Wood Door frame and Doors
The two doors openings were different sizes, but the principle is the same for each.
I started with the frame sections. The standard frame I bought was only about 50mm wide. To be more in keeping with my old house they needed to be more like 80mm.
I cut some lengths of oak from my stock that would be fixed to the frames to make them wider. I routed the arises of the edges of the frame, biscuit jointed the sections then glued the extension pieces on with polyurethane glue. I did this to both jambs and the head for each door.
The frames were also too tall, so I cut off the tennon then recreated a new tennon.
Once I had the sections and joints to size and the hinge positions routed out my wife gave them a first coat of Danish oil on the inside and paint on the outside. I then fitted them into the openings.Because its not always easy measuring long diagonals on your own with a tape, I tend to cut a couple of pieces of rough timber, pointed at each end and adjustable with a screw. I then use this to measure diagonals and ensure the frame is square.The pieces of oak I used to widen the frame matched pretty well. You would not really notice unless you knew to look for the join.
I checked the frames for plumb, held them in place with wedges then finally fixed them with frame fixers (long screw and plug that fits right through the frame and into the brickwork. I also sealed the gaps with PU foam all the way round.
The utility room door needed to be appreciably wider. As with the frames, I routed off the arrised edges then biscuit jointed lengths of oak to the sides.
The kitchen door did not need widening, but did need shortening, so I cut a section from the bottom of the door.
With drill and chisel I cut the mortice to fit the five lever deadlock. I also routed out for the hinges.
The fitted door and frame to the utility room. Both frame and door are considerably wider than a standard door.